I’ve been meaning for weeks to put together a rebuttal to the Style Coalition’s video “Don’t Shop” but haven’t been able to come up with words sufficient enough to make my feelings and ideas clear. As I read Anabela’s observations today on fieldguided, I was reminded of the main message I wanted to get across, and that is how IMPORTANT it is to support the designers we love.
My knee jerk reaction to the “Don’t Shop” video was that the designers mentioned in the video are not the ones who need our support – and don’t even get me started on should we be concerned about “saving” NY Fashion Week (I’ve written before about my general distaste for “Fashion Week” and belief that especially NY’s fashion week is generally un-necessary, a colossal waste of money and self-serving). I would also argue that Diane von Furstenberg, Marc Jacobs and Dolce & Gabanna don’t “need” our financial support as much as smaller designers do, but in the end of the day if their designs are where your heart lies, then I believe that’s where you should spend your VERY hard-earned money. I’ll reserve mine for independent designers (and James Perse, and Splendid – just being honest).
I cannot even begin to paraphrase Anabela’s brilliant words in her two articles (read this one first, then this one), so I won’t. Please please please read them if you care at all about independent design. I was particularly affected by this quote by Alyson Fox:
I am still not self supporting, but I think I am getting closer. Hopefully. I have a great month and then a really slow month. It is really scary, but also self rewarding. I nanny three times a week to pay the grueling student loan, car insurance, gas and health insurance. Then with what I make from selling my art or from my small clothing line, I save 50 percent of it right off the bat. Then I reinvest the other half back into my work. More so into the clothes since that involves the most overhead. It takes a lot of hard work, sometime tears and a lot of support.
I will never carry or look at my Fox in Mociun tote bag the same way again. I have treasured that bag since the second I got it, I appreciate the design, the pattern and the work that went into it, now more than ever. I guess I have had a very nieve view of independent designers in that I feel like if they’re getting a lot of attention, they’re making money. Anabela negates that in a second with this quote:
I don’t want to sound bitter, but it reminds me (ever so slightly) of the embroidery hoop I made for Baker’s Dozen. I keep seeing its image on blogs. People send me links saying they saw it posted here or there. Others seem to enjoy it. How many have sold? Two. 1, 2.
Wow. That reminds me of how often I post about Necklush and say I’m going to buy one and don’t…I know a lot goes into a decision whether to buy something or not, but I also know that the next time I’m thinking about spending $60 on James Perse, I could spend half that much on a necklush and know that I’m directly impacting someone’s life. I also need to shut up already and buy a Moop bag – or should I go for the quilted loche by SWANclothing instead?
 Necklush: $22 |  swanClothing Quilted Loche: $150 |
I know how scary it is to be completely dependent on your own business, living day-to-day thinking about when you’ll get your next payment, and then deciding how to use that money to grow your business AND support yourself. At the same time, though, it’s the best feeling in the world – and I want to know that my money, no matter how little, can help another small entrepreneur achieve her dreams of self-sufficiency.
That’s why I will choose to support independent design & designers.
What about you? What are your thoughts on independent design? do you support the designers you write about? Tell me some of your favorite independent designers.
oooh yeah… i remember that… i was going to write a post, but i decided not to because i like the bloggers who made it, and their intentions were good, but i felt poorly executed.
i try to buy from independent designers as much a possible, though it’s not always practical, sometimes it’s more practical. it’s hard to say with these things.
another thing i was thinking was independent designers are much more open to cultivating a community…
.-= jennine´s last blog ..Coveted Review: Charlotte Russe: Mixing In Fast Fashion =-.
i agree with you on the intentions of the video – i really just felt like it focused too much on the designers who really DON’T need our help – in my opinion anyway – and not at all on the ones who do. i think i have fallen into the trap of writing a lot about independent designers, but not putting my money where my mouth is. i mean, how often have i talked about how much i love ashley watson’s recycled leather bags, but when it comes time for me to shell out my $$ i choose alexander wang instead. not that there’s anything wrong with that, it’s my (your) money, spend it where you want, but i feel a little hypocritical as a result of some of my purchases.
it’s also hard for me to buy clothes from designers i’m not already familiar with – i am really afraid that most pieces would run too small for me, and i hate to take that risk. but now, i’m committed to really supporting small designers and buying the things i really love – i’d like to make some small difference…
I just wanted to say thanks so much for the great post. As an independent designer myself, I can say that all of this is so true. It takes a long time for all of the blog posts, press, etc. to actually translate to sales. I think that like Gretchen mentioned it is hard for people to make the leap to an unknown brand when you’re unfamiliar with the sizing, quality, etc. I also have a job outside of running my business that is necessary for now to pay my bills… All of the profits I make are cycled back into my business.
thanks for your feedback jesica! i can’t wait to start collecting pieces from my favorite independent designers and review them. hopefully that will help people with questions about sizing/etc., and give an idea of how they look IRL.
I tend to focus more on independent designers on my blog with interviews, etc. I find they are more exciting creatively and it’s a thrill to fall in love with a piece of clothing and find that you can actually afford it! And the designers are so accessible. If I had to choose between the fashion houses or the independents I would choose the latter without hesitation.
I still buy some luxury brands here and there, always on sale when I do, and I’m convinced that when I spend on the big names it comes down to the fact that the brand is top of mind. We see them over and over in magazines, on Style.com, blogs, and if you’re an email subscriber to the online boutiques you’ll get emails showing the latest arrivals or sale items, every single day.
We’re all attracted to beautiful things but you make a good point, Grechen. Let’s think harder about who we give our money to, and do something about it.
.-= Denise @ Swelle´s last blog ..Have You Entered the Giveaway for the $550 Warrior Refined Necklace? =-.
Whoa Grechen. Great post. Well you know I’m ALL about this topic, since my blog covers independent and emerging designers. I try to buy indie designers not only because I’m over the non-personal mass luxury aspect of what people consider “luxury brands,” but because through interviews and interactions with some of my favorite new independent designers, I’ve come to really respect their perserverence, passion and dedication to the craft.
Great post. Although I do have to disagree about your anti-NY Fashion Week stance. A lot of emerging designers aspire to show at Fashion Week because it may mean that their small brand has a chance to gain a greater audience, whether through buyers or media. Also, most of the shows that I attend are off-schedule– and in my short time of attending these shows, I’ve experienced some pretty powerful debuts.
.-= dreamsequins´s last blog ..Fashion’s Night Out =-.
when i speak about fashion week, i guess i’m referring more to the huge, really spendy shows by designers we are already familiar with. i think the shows that are held in hotel rooms, warehouses, or in impromptu spaces during fashion week by the smaller, independent designers are very cool – and hopefully effective. i do realize that fashion week also provides great opportunities for smaller designers, but still, with all the coverage, most of the focus is always on the BIG shows. and maybe producing runway shows like that takes money from a designer which could be better spent on online marketing? or developing an ecommerce site? i don’t know – it’s all just speculation and opinion 🙂
thanks so much for your comment! i love to read your interviews with designers & boutiques – especially the one you did on pixie market. L.O.V.E.
Very thoughtful post. You’ve summed up why we opened our boutique (other than loving indie design) – because these are the designers who need our support. They’re not household names and people tend to buy in their comfort zone in terms of brands. We want to show the public that indie design isn’t scary or overpriced – it’s about finding something you love and possibly making a connection to that designer. Something that’s near impossible (beyond emotional) with “big” labels.
As small boutiques close, many of these designers are loosing their sales venues. Less venues = less potential customers. Each sale matters more.
dawn you are so right about boutiques closing affecting independent designers – but although i’ve seen more boutiques close in the last year or so than in the last 5, i’m also really excited to have discovered new ones, like yours, and moxsie. i really see more and more consumers & boutiques putting an emphasis on independent design – mostly because they love it, but also because of concern over shopping small & local for environmental reasons. everything goes together…
and i love what everyone keeps saying about having a connection with independent designers – THAT is the key, i think. we want what we buy to having meaning now, and we want to know the impact what we buy has on our communities & our environment.
Reading this is making me see independent designers in a whole new light. Like you, I thought that I wasn’t making much of a impact for them if I purchase or not. Running a web store, I should know better! The quote from Anabela really touched me. I recently set a goal to buy less new clothes and accessories, but I should add a codicil to only buy indie if I buy new at all.
.-= Carla | Green and Chic´s last blog ..Things you dont need to buy – reducing waste =-.
that quote from anabela really hit home for me too – i don’t know why i didn’t think about that before, but i really just…didn’t. i just always assumed that if i saw a designer or particular item featured all over the place, that people were also buying…big mistake! there’s a much bigger disconnect between what we see featured in magazines and on blogs and what’s actually selling than we realize.
i admire your goal, carla! i need to do the same, although i’m afraid i won’t be able to resist new inhabit cashmere, or james perse fleece in a couple of months LOL. i will try and be strong!
I too assumed that everyone is buying, especially if they seem to get a lot of attention for their work. I have to keep in mind the state of the economy but so many people are buying from conventional labels.
.-= Carla | Green and Chic´s last blog ..Things you dont need to buy – reducing waste =-.
i think that “we” live in our own little world sometimes, a world in which everyone reads blogs and shops online, but that is SO not the real world! more people shop at their local mall and target than shop online – and if they don’t read smaller blogs, they’re really not exposed to a lot of independent design…
i really enjoyed this post, and thanks for linking to anabela’s posts. this remindes me of the afternoon a week ago when i went down to the west village to check out the summer/early fall collection of a really talented local designer named kareen smith…only to find her shop gone and replaced by a computer repair store. i feel guilty that i didn’t stop by earlier, or, better yet, actually buy something from her line. it’s not easy, but in the past two years and definitely since i started blogging i’ve learned so much about the independent fashion world, and i’ve almost completely weaned myself off of H&M and other big chain stores (well, save the occasional club monaco blazer!) in favor of boutiques and local designers. it’s a challenge sometimes, but it’s worth fighting the good fight, eh? 🙂
.-= miss sophie´s last blog ..the oldest trick in the (style)book =-.
oh, and yeah i vote for you to get a moop bag already! 😀
.-= miss sophie´s last blog ..the oldest trick in the (style)book =-.
LMAO. i know, right?
Can I add as a small biz owner for 10 years now (Pilates studio) anytime you can support local is great. For every dollar spent in your local community 68% stays in the local community. The dollar that is spent at Walmart only 18% stays local and that’s to low wage earners who need every cent!
Locavore is a cool word used often for food, I’d like to see it expand a bit to encompass all forms of consumption. Of course, for fashion this is much easier if you live in NYC! Still I’m in Boston and there are a lot of thriving designers coming up through the ranks.
Thanks Grechen, great post. Here’s a link for local biz.
http://www.the350project.net/home.html
.-= Lisa Johnson´s last blog ..A Little Tummy & A Lot of Confidence =-.
I agree with most of what you’re saying. I support indie designers because I have hopes of being an entrepreneur and want to support others living the dream. Sometimes it’s easier to buy something that’s cheaper or more quickly available (like at a Target), but I also strive to support local businesses (like the winery that opened up on my road) and young emerging indie designers. One of the reasons I started my blog was because I was seeing so many amazing things on Etsy and through other trend research projects and I wanted to get the word out. I can’t afford to buy everything I love, but at least I have a space to pimp out these designers to my friends and readers.
However, I have to admit that I have my guilty pleasures that are mass-market. And I’m okay with that. I do my best to find the balance.
.-= Leigh´s last blog ..Sequin Jewelry @ Gilt Fuse =-.
This is a truly excellent post, Grechen. As someone who has an indie business in the hobbyist mindset, I don’t even begin to think about trying to make it a full-time position. The truth is, it’s frightening as hell– to hear people respond well, but have no sales. The time & dedication needed when I only have so much spare time after my full-time job… I end up feeling like I’m working non-stop between the FT job, my blog, and my etsy shop.
Like many others, I really do try to support local and independent designers myself whenever I can. It’s harder, being plus-sized, and knowing– hey, when I need new jeans, where do I have to go? But when it comes to accessories, blouses, and other pieces that I can do, I DO try to go indie as often as possible. I like to think of it as a circle of giving.. the more I give back to the independent designers, the more I may get back…
.-= Ashe Mischief´s last blog ..Etsy/Indie Designers: Claire la Faye =-.
i totally hear you…on both counts! it’s a very scary thing to jump off the cliff to ONLY working for yourself – you have to have PROOF that you’ll be able to support yourself first, and it takes a long time to build that up – if ever. and truthfully, my biggest problem in buying independent design is the size issue also. i’m a “hippy” size 12 and have a hard time fitting in “normal” size L’s or denim anyway, i’m pretty hesitant to try a lot of new designers for fear the pieces just won’t fit me right.
and i love your point about the “circle of giving” – i really believe that’s true!
thanks for posting about this Grechen – i had not seen that video or heard about that site before! yes, i agree with everyone here that buying independent and supporting entrepreneurs is so important to fostering creativity in local and national economies (with the help of the web).
i do think it is interesting though that whether or not people agree with the Style Coalition project, it is being effective at publicizing supporting designers in this economy, and sparking this conversation about how great indie fashion is!
leigh, i think what you – and all of us as bloggers – do is great! providing a place for people to discover designers they may never have heard of is soooo important. giving designers a platform is a lot of why i started grechen’s closet 5 years ago also. for me now, though, i’m just really trying to find a balance between talking about independent design & actually buying/wearing it more often. it is easy to buy what’s readily available, cheaper, and what i know fits, but i have enough of that stuff already – now’s the time for me to be collecting interesting & meaningful pieces.
and if i’m anything, i’m an advocate for BUYING WHAT YOU LOVE. whatever you love. we all work very hard to earn our $$, we should be spending it on things that make us smile 🙂
thanks lisa for reminding me about local shopping – my dad owns a small tennis shop in orlando and we have discussions about this all the time; it’s a very important issue – and one that i neglect. i’ve never really given local boutiques or designers a chance (i’ve been soured by several local boutiques) – mostly because i don’t have a lot of time to go “out” shopping, but i would love to be more involved in my community that way. i guess i feel a little less guilty about not spending my money locally when at least it’s spent on a small designer. they’re local somewhere, right?
Wow Gretchen, thank you for posting this and the links to Anabela’s articles and the two quotes from Alyson Fox. Alyson’s words bring tears to my eyes, this is an existence I have been living for 15 years. I can never seem to bring myself to write about how hard it is. I know it is a choice and still choose this everyday of my life … I love having my own independent label… but there are days when it seems impossible… there is no safety net.
.-= Trish (mergirl)´s last blog ..Vernakular =-.
well… i’d have to say go for the SWANclothing Louche 🙂 aw. and thanks for mentioning me 🙂
i’m very into supporting independent designers. absolutely. i was just walking around Vancouver this weekend and was disturbed to see some of the stores that carried smaller and local labels closed. i don’t think thhey can keep up with the insane rent here.
.-= SwanDiamondRose´s last blog ..wardrobe 08.25.2009 afro-dress & OTK 60s gogo boots… [2] =-.
You are totally awesome for posting this! I vote for Ms. Swan’s bag as well. 😀
.-= andrea´s last blog ..I am pumped; how about you =-.
thanks andrea 🙂
omg, i love your bags, thank you so much for your comment!!
Etsy is a great place to look for indie emerging designers. I did a post on some of my faves a while back, here: http://fishmonkey.blogspot.com/2009/07/oh-etsy-i-love-you-so.html
.-= Kathy´s last blog ..Short Story Sale =-.
thank you for this great post. i can’t tell you how much it hit home for me. i’d had a draft written up long ago and edited a million times, talking about the same subject, but somehow it didn’t sound right enough to post in public.
i’m an independent designer and one still attending school at parsons. the quote you took from anabela sounds like something i say every other day. the things i make, i wear, daily or especially to parties. i can’t tell you the number of strangers who come up to me to tell me they love what i have on, and where did i buy it? and i can’t count the number of people who’ve taken my photo on the streets, or told me they love my design style. as a designer, having people love what i do is really an amazing feeling. it’s what i live for, really.
i’m still a student and i’m lucky that my parents are well-off enough to be supporting my lifestyle now. but once i graduate, it’s going to hit home to me that all these compliments mean nothing when no one is buying anything.
i make all my clothes in my own apartment. everything. i can’t buy fabric in bulk, i don’t send 1000pieces to some china factory where the girls working at 14 years old, i don’t have the budget that big companies have, to lower their costs so that my selling price can be lower. things in my studio are made by hand, with love, with the intention that it will last for a long time and be loved by whoever wears it.
try as i might, i cant lower my prices anymore than they are. i know they might be expensive but with the cost of making it plus the time that goes into it, it wouldn’t make sense for me to even attempt to sew a new piece if they were cheaper.
i would love for more people to start supporting independent designers like myself. i’ve been lucky that some people and stores who told me they love what i do, actually do place some orders. but those small numbers are not going to be able to pay my rent.
.-= queengilda´s last blog ..saturday’s new york shopping tour & its unexpected compliments =-.
thank you so much for sharing your story – i really hope that this movement away from “fast fashion” that’s supposedly taking hold now will continue and really pick up speed once the economy improves. it will not only be great for the independent design community when people start recognizing the importance of small designers and one-of-a-kind clothing, but benefit all of us to have such art in our lives…
Very insightful and thought-provoking post. I share your views and admire your support of independent designers.