Emerson Fry’s fall collection launches on August 25th (sign up to shop early) and I am beyond excited about THIS sweater. The whole collection is wonderful, as usual, but this wool sweater, in all it’s oversized glory, has me giddy. Honestly, it reminds me of the colorful, GIGANTIC, sweaters I used to wear with my stirrup leggings in the 80’s. You remember those, right? But in a much more mature palette and shape. Anyway, it’s cozy, warm, and EXACTLY what I want to live in this fall/winter.
AND, if you’re concerned about wool after the recent “scandal” surrounding Ovis 21, the commercial-scale ranch system that supplies wool for Patagonia and Stella McCartney (although no longer), you can rest a little easier, because Emerson Fry uses Imperial Stock Ranch in Oregon (the same ranch Zady used for their sweater last year).
I haven’t, and won’t, watch the PETA video; I can only imagine the horror. But I take this as yet another reminder of how it’s become increasingly difficult for clothing brands to monitor their supply chains, within which there is often lack of transparency and oversight. It’s surprising also, that this is true even among brands like Patagonia & Stella McCartney for whom sustainable manufacturing and humane treatment of animals is a cornerstone of their business. It’s shocking, frankly. And exceptionally disappointing.
More on this later, much more, but at least with regard to Emerson Fry and Imperial Stock Ranch wool, after some research, I am a bit more confident that they respect the animals and the process at every stage, which makes me feel better about promoting it, and using my money to buy it:
The Carvers believed that even more important than the ranch heritage, or the heritage of the Columbia breed, was the fact that we are all called to honor the vital role sheep have played on the landscape and in the history of man. The Imperial Stock Ranch also happens to believe that sheep simply belong…grazing the landscape.
The Carvers set out to prove you don’t have to cross an ocean to make clothing. Similar to the farm-to-fork “slow food” movement that reconnects us to our food, the Carvers are leading a ranch-to-runway “slow wear” movement that reconnects us to the source of the fibers we wear, and the animals that provide it…tending and honoring the nature of sheep. The first step was to create and sell premium wool yarns. As a spinoff of the historic Imperial Stock Ranch, Imperial Yarn was born.
Granted, this is from Imperial’s website, but I absolutely respect Emerson Fry and Zady (who worked with the ranch on their wool sweater), and trust that they have done their homework with regard to the ranch and the process.
Now back to Emerson Fry. They’re using more linen (flax) and organic cotton in place of cheaper synthetic fibers this season. Whenever they DO use synthetics though, it’s for:
specific purpose and function of the fabric, for instance an extraordinary ponte that has great stretch and structure. But the majority of the line is focused around natural fibers, so you are buying a line that feels very natural and good on the body, and materials that are long wearing and texturally dynamic/beautiful.
Don’t you just love that description? “extraordinary” ponte? Makes me want to try it…
Please take a moment to look through more of the preview and read through the interview with E on Emerson Fry’s website. I purposefully left out lots of photos just so you’d be enticed to go over there. It’s worth it, I promise. And the interview. I literally got goose bumps reading through it, and consider myself honored to be able to introduce you to such a woman, and indeed, a company that embodies all that I believe and respect about clothing:
Clothing is one of our great forms of self-expression and art. Look at the history of clothing and you see the evolution of thought, social structure and human progress. And in terms of enjoyment, look at the way you can change how your entire body reads by the change of proportions. You can make yourself really big, imposing. You can be light as air. You can make everything sleek and simple. you can make yourself the canvas of everything you think about and love in life. Its as light or as heavy as you want it to be. It has deep significance or it can be just for fun. The Clothing we collect represents a freedom, and the continuous opportunity to experience life, and ourselves, in a new way.
Let me know what you think about the fall preview & Emerson Fry. And what are your thoughts on “better” wool production?
I’m working on a couple more articles on this, including a look at alpaca vs. sheep’s wool vs. cashmere. Buckle up 🙂
I have a credit right now from a sale item I returned, which of course I have convinced myself is “free” money to spend. I can’t wait for the fall launch! Did you end up buying the core bra?
I didn’t (and won’t) watch the video either, and I don’t know exactly what was done to to the animals at that particular farm. But from what I’ve heard, at least some of the “outrage” is a reaction to standard livestock farming practices. Apparently, a lot of people are ignorant about what constitutes standard farming practice and were shocked to see them in action.
I don’t believe there is any such thing as cruelty-free when it comes to animal products of any kind. O.k., maybe a few small family hobbyists or sanctuaries can manage it, but for most farmers, livestock are not pets. What is generally labeled as “humane” farming entails practices that I find disturbing. So I do limit my consumption of animal products.
I don’t call myself a vegan. I never wear fur or eat meat, but I do wear some leather, wool, and silk. I like the idea of “better wool”, but honestly, I’m not likely to limit myself for that reason only.
I also live in a community which is currently being poisoned by petrochemical production. Those same petrochemicals are used to make synthetic fibers, which, by the way, are also toxic and unpleasant to handle during the sewing process. (I sometimes sew as a hobby and I refuse to sew with synthetic fabrics because I can’t stand to breathe in the “lint”, or the fumes given off while pressing seams.) Petrochemicals harm people and animals, too. I don’t see synthetics as a better alternative to natural products.
There are so many issues to consider as a consumer, What I decided to do a few years ago was to just try not to buy so much, period. I figured, the less I buy, the less I waste, and I reduce my participation in the problems caused by mass production.
I’ve also been taking baby-steps toward more conscious consuming. For instance, over the years, I’ve almost eliminated my consumption of all animal foods. And I’ve got a plan in place to gradually replace all my “fast fashion” with more consciously-produced pieces. (I’m thinking it will take at least a couple of years, on my budget.)
you’re absolutely right, on all points (although i definitely think there is such a thing as “humane” when it comes to treatment of animals, and thus relatively cruelty-free) – and i’m working on so many posts about these (it’s overwhelming!) issues. i try to balance reality with what we can actually DO, and how much influence we can have, as well as my own beliefs about how we treat animals. it’s so complicated, because i really think i’m a vegan at heart…but i understand that most of the world is not. and i’m not sure opting out (by just saying that i personally refuse to eat meat or wear leather) is the answer.
all we can each truly do is BETTER. and i guess all i want to do is bring attention to the issues without preaching or saying that only one way is right. everyone is free to decide how they want to act on the knowledge i help point them to.
it’s SOOOO COMPLICATED though. so complicated….
Hey, good on you for bringing up this tough issue once again. I find the whole thing devastating. Like you said, Patagonia is known for it’s ethical commitments, especially regarding wool. It is really scary to think this can happen under their watch.
In light of this, I was thrilled to see Emerson Fry’s fall launch, not only because their stuff is BEAUTIFUL, but also because they seem incredibly mindful about the way they do things. They stick to their ethics without drawing undo attention to it…like it is the common sense of clothing design and manufacturing. And I like that they keep their line small and cohesive. It’s really well done. I wish I could roll back time and redo my spring/summer shopping and save up for Fall. I got sucked into sales once again. Next time I am able, I am definitely going to try a few more EF pieces. I’d really like a coat and a pair of pants. And a bag. If I could un-buy all my handbags, I could afford a Stella McCartney bag.
I am glad Peta is Peta, and takes the kind of stand they do on using animal products. I don’t want them to stop being radical and courageous, especially considering the culture of consumerism that surrounds animals as property/products. Yet, as someone who was raised alongside sheep and alpaca farmers who sheered their animals to turn into (knitting) wool, I do believe there is a way to do these things that does not equate to animal cruelty. Thanks, Grechen, for looking into all this.
ha, i pretty much think the same thing when i have credit…
i didn’t get the bra, yet. putting off buying more things for a little while 🙂
yeah, i was sort of shocked that this is the supplier both patagonia and stella mccartney used. of course, i haven’t seen the video, maybe i should know what i’m talking about, but i heard something about sheep being skinned alive and nearly lost it, so no, i won’t watch it. and i do think that is excessive cruelty, and not a standard practice. but i don’t know that. i hope it’s not. anyway, it says a lot about patagonia’s and stella mccartney’s faith in their supply chain that they chose to sever all ties instead of “fix” the problem. and how difficult it is in the apparel industry in general to “police” supply chains and really be aware at every step WHAT is happening with your product. yearly oversight doesn’t cut it. especially if, as both companies say, sustainability and animal welfare are crucial to their mission.
anyway…it’s less and less possible to be SURE of anything, so much is based on trust. ugh. as consumers, we just have to look for transparency and learn as much as we can about the people and companies who design/create our clothes. then make decisions accordingly. and shift when we learn something else…
Thank you for this post. It is important to be a more conscious consumer whether it’s clothing, food, beauty products, etc…but it can be overwhelming, especially in the beginning when transitioning to a more conscious lifestyle.
I agree with you, Gretchen, that it takes baby steps.
I made a lot of changes years ago for health reasons and one of the surprising parts was reactions from other people who thought that I was crazy. I don’t care what they think though because my family is healthy and happy.
thank you for your comment janice! i actually read a book or something about that, maybe it was by brene brown, that addressed people’s reactions to change in loved ones. it was very interesting. i think the conclusion was that it’s based in fear – fear that when you change, your relationship with them won’t be as important, fear that they won’t relate to you anymore, fear of the unknown…so much of everything is based in fear. but it’s amazing how that happens, isn’t it? good for you for making the changes you needed to make, for you and your family. it’s hard enough to do that without outsiders getting involved!!
Love Emerson Fry! The price is hard for me to swing until things hit the ends section though. Any chance your partnership with them will include a coupon code?
they always do a coupon around black friday/cyber monday – i’m not sure about otherwise, but i’ll definitely post if so 🙂
I should have been more specific in my comment about “standard practices”. I was thinking of tail-docking and castration. There is also a common practice where the skin is scraped off their back legs near the tail in order to help keep the wool clean. I don’t know if any of these are common practices in what is labeled as humane farming, but I’m pretty sure they are standard in regular farming.
I do know there are farms that don’t do the skin-scraping and companies that won’t buy from farmers who do that. All of the practices mentioned above are done to prevent disease but the manner in which they are done is what animal advocates object to.
Thanks for keeping us informed about the issues that matter with regard to our clothing purchases. I’ve become so much more AWARE of where my clothing comes from, how it’s made, who makes it…all because of your blog.
I read the same interview with E on the Emerson Fry blog and my first thought, after reading the words you quoted above, was, “That’s so in-line with what Grechen espouses!” Wear what you love to suit your mood. I intend to do much more of that this fall!
That sweater is just stunning. I’m trying so hard to not shop and failing, failing, failing! Grechen, do you have any idea of how much it will retail for? I do think it may sell out so I am contemplating signing up…sadface…
Thanks Grechen! Not sure if I can hold off on those shark slip-ons for that long but I’ll try!
i honestly don’t know the retail price, but emerson fry is sending me one to review for you guys, but it won’t arrive until Wednesday….
i would sign up and maybe order one anyway if you’re afraid it’ll sell out…it’s returnable I’m sure…