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Look! It’s another mass-retailer/designer collaboration!! In case you hadn’t heard already (it’s been ALL OVER THE INTERNETS!), this Spring, Swedish Hasbeens will do a line for H&M. And as with the Mulberry X Target collaboration, the blogosphere is all abuzz and excited about getting their Swedish Hasbeens fix for well under $100.
Swedish Hasbeens prides itself on being “environmentally friendly” and for producing heirloom quality shoes. Shoes that will last forever, based on old Swedish styles, shoes that you can pass on to your daughter when she’s old enough to wear them. When you pay $250+ for a pair of their shoes, you’re paying for the quality, the design, THE STORY, the natural materials they use and the traditional production methods.
I can’t quite figure out, based on the press release, if they intend to maintain their traditional methods and environmentally friendly (chrome-free & veg. tanned leathers) materials to produce the line for H&M – but really how could they?
“We have a strong belief in making better shoes for a better world. We want to make fashion more fun, creative and friendly to both the environment and people. We have loved designing for H&M! It’s a fantastic opportunity to spread the idea of Hasbeens and make these shoes available to more people around the world,” says Emy Blixt, founder and designer of Swedish Hasbeens.
My question for Emy is How exactly is this spreading the idea of Hasbeens? it’s spreading the idea of CHEAP Hasbeens for H&M. After buying a pair for $69 via H&M, why would someone then later purchase a pair for $250 via Endless or Swedish Hasbeens own website? Would you?
Maybe Swedish Hasbeens’ high price isn’t justified, maybe it is. But after this H&M collaboration, it will NEVER be justified again. If, as they say, they will continue to use eco-friendly materials to produce their shoes for H&M (still not sure about this), how will they EVER be able to justify charging more than $100 for their clogs again? (What would you be paying more for then?) Yes, they will sell A LOT of shoes via H&M which does justify charging less for them, but not that much less, assuming they’re using comparable materials. They’ll be mass-produced, which will cut down on costs also, but I was under the impression that Swedish Hasbeens took pride in the fact that their clogs are produced traditionally. I THOUGHT that and their environmental ethics was key to their business operations, and I’m sure it’s a big reason many people choose to purchase Swedish Hasbeens in spite of the cost.
If they’re willing to sacrifice their core company ethics for money, I’m not sure I’m willing to support them anymore. The problem is everyone is doing it. No6 did it, Rachel Comey did it…but those companies aren’t built around the notion of quality, natural materials & traditional processes. Swedish Hasbeens was.
I am tired, tired, tired of independent designers thinking they have to do a mass-produced, diluted line with big-box retailers to be successful; to make MONEY. Sure, they’re going to make a BOATLOAD more money with this collaboration, but as far as I could tell, Swedish Hasbeens wasn’t doing too bad on their own. DO NOT tell me this is all in the name of some altruistic notion of “bringing fashion to the masses of people who can’t normally afford it”. PLEASE. The designers are trying to make a bit (a lot actually) more money. That’s it.
And ultimately, there’s nothing wrong with trying to make more money, I am just disappointed they are going about it this way; diluting their message and their brand to sell more shoes. Overall, I’m also tired of every fashion editor and blogger’s knee-jerk sickeningly-positive response to every single designer collaboration: “oh look at company x, doing the good work of bringing affordable fashion to the masses. yay them.” It’s a slap in the face to the consumers who buy quality over quantity, and a joke to the consumers who don’t care. Why should we try to encourage them to pay more for good stuff when the same designers who make the “good stuff” are selling inferior stuff through mass-retailers? Where are the ethics?
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What do you think? (give it to me!!)
Oh my, I absolutely agree. There’s an element of sell-out when a high-end designer attempts to pander to the public in order to pull in more money. And there’s no doubt that quality gets lost in translation. I use some designer’s collaborations with Target an example. I cannot count the number of times I have run over to see designer x’s Target pieces, only to be absolutely crushed by the dismal low quality (pulled seams, uneven stitching, cheap fabric) of the items. And it baffles me to read glowing recommendations from bloggers regarding these items. I think some people get so caught up in the thrill of wearing a budget-friendly piece from a big name designer that they can’t be objective.
I’ve been lusting over a pair of Swedish Hasbeens for awhile, but plan to save my pennies and purchase the real deal rather than a pair from H&M. I am certain that I’ll get my money’s worth.
Elissa – i have done the same thing with the target collabs! in the beginning, i was so excited to check them out and was ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS disappointed. and i totally agree with this statement: “some people get so caught up in the thrill of wearing a budget-friendly piece from a big name designer that they can’t be objective.”
endless has quite a few pairs of SH on sale, i got my favorite pair of SH on sale for about $150, and i wore them all Summer…
I didn’t know them and they are not really my style but I agree with you 100%!
I completely agree with you. A few years ago the concept of massclusivity appealed to me because I wasn’t in a financial position to buy quality and my philosophy of stuff prioritized quantity. Years of thrifting had eroded away my selectivity and on some level my sense of material value/worth.
Though I should credit the Target GO collaborations as a gateway drug to luxury. I knew I liked the design elements of the collaborations but I grew to dislike the feel of synthetic fabrics and the shoddy quality inherent to most of the pieces I took home. They wasted space in my closet for a year or so only to be donated away. Even if I do view nostalgically my initial interest in these types of business strategies for brands, I can also say that a collaboration almost always means I stop buying the higher priced line. The only designer I will still buy who did a Target collab is Anna Sui and it is 100% more annoying to search the ebay market for past season pieces because of the flooded market of crappy Target stuff. I do see the short term payoff for designers but it seems dangers in the longterm.
*dangerous (not dangers)
I saw a post in the WSJ (of all places!) last night about Hasbeens for H&M and was shocked first that Hasbeens was doing this and then shocked again that I hadn’t read it here first! Anyway I completely concur with your rant. The only mass market collaboration I’ve ever liked it the Liberty x Target last spring – and THAT was only for housewares and stuff like that – Liberty print file folders yay! The women’s clothes were worse than atrocious, though the girls clothes were cute and fun (and made out of cotton, if not real Tana Lawn Liberty cotton.)
What these companies (and I mean the small independents) SHOULD do is team up with another designer to bring another viewpoint to their already cool line – ie, Liberty for Hasbeens or Rodarte for Hasbeens (the Mulleavy sisters seem like the types who wear clogs!) In other words a little like what Opening Ceremony does with its collaborations. Yes, that’s the word – COLLABORATE – they need to collaborate, not dumb down.
Love this post! I agree. It’s definitely a real catch for some designers to get to do a high street range but I’m just not at all sure that this was suitable for Swedish Hasbeens – especially if, as you say, they are insisting on the H&M stuff being enviromentally produced. Elissa got it spot on with the sentence you quoted, though!
I would rather have a real pair if I had the money! I hear they’re incredibly comfortable and I love them so. The PERFECT summer shoe!
I see everyones point. But I still think the sample sale/flea market find a la “Gilt” is a thrill and makes it ever so fun. I wish the designers who collaborate would adjust their materials without a huge compromise. For instance silk doesn’t have to translate into polyester just to be cheaper. Cotton can offer the same effect if cut right and the right kind of cotton. Also if the designers made their designs a departure from what they are know for exactly, their original customer will still be interested in buying their own line or maybe even both lines? Finally I think H+M and Hasbeens would ultimately do something together. Sweden is a small social scene, I’m sure a conversation about collaborating happened many times… over a chilled glass of acquavit? Will see how the eco materials and message finally translates in the end…. which I think was your original point (-:
I see your point, but so far what I actually know about the collaboration is so little that I don’t think I can yet pass judgement on the quality of the materials, or the message, etc. What I have read actually indicates that these H&M shoes will be made of environmentally friendly, quality materials (see Glamour’s bit about the collaboration). I own 4 pairs of Hasbeens, and am not particularly fazed by this collaboration because these H&M Hasbeens are not the same styles of the more expensive, full-fledged Hasbeens.
I think that if you let this collaboration make you so irate that it keeps you from buying Hasbeens in the future, the only one missing out in the long run is you.
i’m not sure anyone knows anything yet besides what’s in the press release i linked in the article – and IMO it wasn’t clear about whether or not the SH x H&M clogs would live up to the same environmental standards as SH. if glamour.com has information otherwise, they should back it up.
and honestly, i won’t be missing out if i don’t purchase another pair of SH’s…i have enough pairs already – pairs that i bought with the understanding that the company cared about product integrity.
lisa, i totally agree with you about the compromise designers are making; i think i mentioned that with the mulberry x target collab. i also wish they wouldn’t knock-off their own iconic styles…as you also mentioned. i was excited in the beginning for these collaborations, looking forward to new, interesting designs made specifically for a different market. instead, all the designers have ended up doing is duplicating their already popular designs using inferior materials.
yes, some of the SH x H&M clogs are a complete departure from the style clog they’re known for, but at least a couple of pairs are nearly identical to a pair i have – my first beloved pair – that i paid full price for.
and LOL at your acquavit statement – of course it was bound to happen, i’m just disappointed. that’s all. neither swedish hasbeens or H&M will miss my business 😉
YES!!! like rodarte x repetto & james perse x repetto collaborations 🙂
you know…if SH can produce a line for H&M living up to ALL the same qualities/values the original company holds, then i’ll eat my words. but i will never pay more than $100 for a pair of their clogs again. what would i be paying for??
Question about the former exclusive collection for H&M: Thanks!
Did you go to see Lanvin’s collection for H&M?
Whether you bought a piece from the collection or not, your opinion interests me!
I’m doing a PhD on this subject and am very interested in what you have to say.
Here is the link to the Questionnaire
http://sphinx.icn-groupe.fr/recherche/lanvin-hm-en/questionnaire.htm
It will take no longer than 4 to 6 minutes and your help is very important for my study.
Thank you for completing this form!
Christine
totally agree with you here – there’s a big difference between thoughtful and innovative collabs (ie: J Brand x Hussein Chalayan!) vs Expensive Brand x Cheap Mass Retailer ones. i think it just feeds into the whole fast fashion disease that really screws over the women who are the majority consumer base of the fashion industry. this is sad, because it doesn’t enable or empower women to purchase with cultivated taste and discretion with regards to quality and design. instead you have women who have a surplus of disposable fashion and are none the wiser after every season about how to build a beautiful, long-lasting, and functional wardrobe.
Grechen-
But didn’t you probably pay with a promo code and/or on sale anyways ? So it really doesn’t matter in the end at least in my IMO.
I love a good low-priced collaboration. I bought the Mulberry for Target satchel, and it’s turned out to be a great purse. I love when lines team up with large retail chains for a limited edition collection. However, most companies that do this are not based on the principles of quality, integrity, environmentally friendly, and long-lasting pieces. It’s not hard for someone like most labels to make a diluted version of their products. They can use lower-quality materials and still get the same look and feel as their lines. But there’s a reason people are paying a lot of money for Swedish Hasbeens- and it’s because there is a story behind them, and an ideal that the company has set. You don’t see Chanel making a line of the 2.55 bag to be sold at TopShop for $200 do you? No- because it’s an icon that lasts and gets passed down. It’s too bad that Swedish Hasbeens doesn’t see that quality in their own products.
I understand your point!
It seems that many designers these days are jumping on the wagon of “let’s make this look , and that look affordable for all,” instead of sticking to the market they initially set themselves for. I’m all for collaborations, if done tastefully, i.e. (Lanvin for H&M), but it does seem to be almost quite a fad amongst (what used to be considered only) premium designer labels creating for, and loved by premium designer clientele. I’ve always liked some of Swedish Hasbeens styles. I guess we’ll see how this collaboration pans out. 🙂
um… you’re comparing Chanel with Swedish Hasbeens? I think SH would love that, but Chanel not so much. I think it’s fun to collab, just hoping it’s a limited in the edition for a limited time so it can have some allure to all those that are skeptics. At least then it might be an even exchange for lower price and good quality.
I’m surprised that SH are doing this. I can see why lot’s of people are thinking why should I pay $ 100 for my clogs. I still buy my clogs from http://www.lottafromstockholm.co.uk. They are made in sweden and don’t cost more than a pair of SH should probably cost. Handmade lovley clogs for about £ 60.
Anna
I really appreciate your blog on this and, if I may, I would like to point out that it will be the boutiques who will suffer from such a collaboration. Stores have to carry size ranges (set out by companies), and they have to carry more than 1 style so the customer has choice. It becomes a huge part of the inventory, in monetary terms. The stores carry these shoes, promote their sustainability and sell to their customers on their worthiness. Unfortunately, as soon as these hit the shelves at a lower price, no matter the quality, they devalue ALL of the Swedish Hasbeens line. It is one thing for there to be knock offs, one can argue “well, those aren’t the real thing” but when SH attaches their name to it, who will want to spend $250 on a clog sandal and have someone walking around in a $70 pair with the same name on it? It completely, discredits the product.
what a great point racha! i hadn’t thought of that perspective, but can imagine it could have serious consequences for small boutiques – especially in cities where H&M is selling the collab…
Do these shoes actually have a “made in” tag on them? Or does anybody know where they’re produced? “Handmade” under a fair condition and “for a better world” just seems to good to be true for that price…
Grechen – I wanted to follow up on your original post and tell you that I did pick up that cute red pair pictured above. I own other SH and these are not the same. It’s still a nice shoe and very comfy but the wood is different. And it’s missing the SH embossing on the back strap.
Anyone else pick up a pair?
Oh man I wish I read this post before I ordered my Hasbeens. I just bought 2 pairs online and had no idea about this H&M collaboration. I wouldn’t of bought them if that was the case.
Kat – did you check where these were made?
I can’t imagine that they were made in the same factories as the original Hasbeens. They must be made in China or Bangladesh or Turkey, where H&M and many of the high street labels exploit their labor workers. I think that can be the main difference in a pair of H&M Hasbeens vs. the real ones. The materials only count as a fraction of the cost, it’s the labor you are paying for. I will gladly pay for a pair that costs $100 more and made by someone who makes a decent wage over a company that endorses child labor and workers exploits.
Just wanted to say that I somehow missed ‘onthesun’s comment. Oops! I basically asked the same question and said the same things and wanted to second your question to readers who have a pair to confirm where these are made.
One last comment, I promise…
Found this photo when searching for the manufacturing country.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/supertrixiecat/5399897766/in/photostream/
This photo was taken on January 29, 2011 in an H&M store in Vancouer, Canada
Are these knockoffs made and sold in stores before the recent sales of the actual SH collaboration?
I just brought home my pair of H&M-Swedish Hasbeens. You are completely right about a lot of things. Though I just find this yet another reason to love H&M. They are the only highstreet brand that I personally can afford that offers environmentally friendly products.
The shoes in this collaboration are nowhere near the originals in terms of quality. The CMT of the leather is made extremely simple. The wooden block is certainly not ergonomically formed like the originals and I bet you the clasps are not gonna last centuries (as they claim the original clogs will). So, I have just gotten myself a pair of sandals that instead of being made from plastic and fake suede (that would end up looking horrible as soon as I stepped on grass), I’ve gotten shoes made from bio-degradable materials.
Shoes that I am really happy for and will save rather than just throw away because they’re plastic and can’t be repaired. I hope you get my point, I’m not saying that everyone should always buy the cheapest crap they can find just because it looks like something that was good, but I’m just happy environmentally friendly things are available to us with the smaller pockets. Even if it’s just relatively more environmentally friendly.
hello grechen et al… what an interesting discussion!
I saw these at the beginning of the season, and they gave me a bit of a quandary for all the reasons you mention above. I thought the high fashion designs for H&M were much, much nicer than the SH in-house standards, but construction was definitely not the Hasbeen quality. Being a shameless shoe snob, I decided not to go there, until yesterday, when I found a pair languishing in the sale bin for the price of a pizza, caved in and brought them home.
These may not be heirloom quality shoes, but they are certainly not rubbish either. Even if it’s a sell-out for the Hasbeens, H&M have stepped up to the plate and delivered a nice product in natural materials for a reasonable price. I’ve bought into a few designer/high-street collaborations lately (Sonia Rykiel, Lanvin, Jil Sander for Uniqlo) and I thought all were very well executed in terms of materials, cut and construction. Done right, a good design team can deliver an approximation of their high-end products for a fraction of the price, without sacrificing the essential brand values. This has to be a win for sustainable fashion, because it makes it possible to find wardrobe keepers on a budget.
I don’t think anyone who buys these shoes will expect them to be of the same hand-crafted quality as the originals, any more than anyone who bought the Lanvin/H&M collection thought they were buying Parisian couture. But it behooves the designer to uphold production values in these situations, and I think the Hasbeens have done exactly that. These have been one of the iconic staples of this summer, and I bet folks who bought them will be wearing them next summer as well.
I share your concern about production conditions, though. For the record, the shoes were made in Romania. But all in all, I think this hasbeen a successful collaboration …sorry, sorry, i’ll show myself out…